Four Corners Part 5: Four Corners and Mesa Verde
DAY 6
OK so the day before was going to be hard to match but we took a stab at it.
We slept well. I woke to take a few morning snaps. The light was excellent. A lovely green tree/shrub just outside our room.
Off to the cafeteria for breakfast. It was also a fine dining experience. Food was tasty, everyone friendly.
We headed out first with a quick revisit along the south rim of CDC. We wanted a better daylight view of the White House ruin and had been racing the rain yesterday before sunset. Here it is from the overlook. Click through to a larger size (I'd go from there to the All Sizes button above the image and go to Original Size or just click this link.) and look just above the green tree line, just left of center, along the base of the cliff.
Here's a zoomed shot from the same spot.
The canyon seems so very different from above. The vistas are now vast but also remote. While certainly beautiful (like Spider Rock yesterday) there's no substitute for being down there.
We took a walk along the canyon ledge. It's about an 800 foot drop down from here. The ledge wraps around the south rim. We took in the dramatic view. That's the trail down from the rim on the left, switching back and forth.
Mitchell hunted lizards.
We had a big day ahead so we looped back and then headed along the north rim of Canyon Del Muerto on route 64. Stopped along near the Ledge ruin.
These overlooks are similar to those on the south rim but the light has greater contrast with the dramatic, sweeping terrain. Look at the Mummy Cave rim below. The ruin is tucked away just off the floor of the valley in the left section of the shadow that sweeps across the bottom. You can make out a couple of the tower sections.
Zoom.
Further along we found the Massacre Cave overlook. This is an area that Sally had made special mention of as the site of Carson's infamous massacre of indians trapped on the ledge. The ledge is on the left, sweeping up from the bush on the lower left corner. It's currently covered with flat stone rubble from a cliff slide. Just to give you a sense of scale that ledge sits approximate 150 below the rim.
Its nearly overwhelming to imagine what that siege must have been like.
Here's a shot from the Yucca Cave overlook.
We could have spent all day. It's worth noting too that were so few fellow tourists on either rim. We made 5 stops along the north rim. Each stop had a native selling jewelry and such. Only on one stop did we see any other car. Completely amazing to me that this place is so quiet. I don't know nor understand why.
We continued Northeast along 64 towards Tsaile. A brief summer storm came at us as we descended into the tiny town.
Tsaile is little more than a crossroads. I intended to head over the mountains to Shiprock in N.M. Sort of a looping approach to the Four Corners. I got directions from the local gas station. A local chatted with me at the pump regarding my Colorado license plates. Friendly fellow who's family lives in and near the Canyon.
We headed north on 12 and missed the mountain turn at Lukachukai. It's a tiny sign and not a heavily traveled road. C'est la guerre. We'll have to take it next time.
Nonetheless the drive was incredibly scenic and, frankly, more direct to the Four Corners. Route 12 turns into route 191 (how I discovered we were off course) at Round Rock (it was). Then finally "T"ing at Mexican Water Trading Post. East on 160 through Mexican Water and on to yet another Red Mesa.
Now this Red Mesa was interesting indeed. Imagine one of these typical high desert spots. Just a modest sized highway with nothing around but the occasional mesa and scrub brush. Miles of empty space, sky, wind and thoughts. Then suddenly up pops a particularly lovely red mesa, probably 400 feet high and a mile or so long. Not so unusual. Now I didn't get a shot of that one but here's one from just 20 miles earlier with virtually identical proportions.
Well in front of this particular mesa is what appears to be three square blocks of some Silicon Valley housing enclave. Maybe 200 identical, modern condos. Probably less than 10 years old. Completely encircled by a 12 foot, tastefully decorated, cinderblock wall with large and imposing looking gate and gate house. Like some medieval keep transmogrified to the 21st century. Absolutely nothing else nearby save the mesa some 2 miles in the distance. Just flat land and sky. Oh and a gas station in front by the highway.
Random.
Hang a left at Teec Nos Pos (my favorite name) continuing 160, just a few miles and there on the left is the Four Corners.
Well this has certainly gone from an interesting surveying slight-of-hand to a full blow tourist trap. The kids were thrilled and frankly so was I. $4 a head and in you go.
Take a look at the map on the link above. Zoom in a little. It's a wagon circle of stands surrounding what is now a pretty massive conglomeration of concrete and metal plaques complete with aerial photography stand. Aerial meaning up 8 feet above the magical spot as this shot attests.
Don't forget your Four Corners t-shirt.
Actually we went for a fry bread snack. I was tempted to do some more Navajo Tacos but it was too early for that much gas.
Shiprock was viewable in the distance. Thus named as it looked to eastern travelers like a mid 19th century schooner.
We skedaddled. Continuing Northeast on 160 crossing into Colorado heading up to Cortez and Mesa Verde. Stopped at a Sonic burger. First time. Not bad. Rollerskating waitress was a sight. Very nice, efficient and nearly toothless. Charming.
Cortez is the gateway town for Mesa Verde, a huge, mountainous mesa / national park that goes on seemingly forever and is considered mecca for visiting ancient cliff dwellings. We had a nice B&B booked for the night in nearby Dolores but heck it was only 2:30. Let's get in some mesa.
We continued along 160 through Cortez, which is Cowboy Town as this photo will attest if you click through to larger sizes.
Along the right of this shot is the face of the Mesa Verde peaks. Seems unassuming. Wrong.
We enter the park and, having previously paid $80 for the National Parks year long pass, zipped through the entry gate and up the mesa.
Zipped.
Once again we face a tortuously twisty, albeit splendid, 20 mile drive just to get to the visitors center. Took about 35 minutes to get there.
The Long View visitors center has just that but is designed to frustrate the efforts of us simple folk, who are just trying to get the basic info on these fabled cliff dwellings, with no less than a long parking lot, two very, very long ramps, separated by a long under-road tunnel and a climb up to the center.
Some architect, somewhere, should be slapped or sobered up and brought back to march this charming little trek for a month of round trips until he cries uncle or dissolves in lactic acidosis.
Did I mention it was poorly designed?
The two truly magnificent and enormous cliff houses can be visited via tours with the park rangers. One of which, Balcony House, is famous for its multiple ladders and tiny crawlspace tunnel for access and egress. Kat was a little nervous about it. I had visions of wedging myself in some space...
We went for it. Also buying a ticket for the tour of Cliff Palace for tomorrow.
Did I mention there's no cliff dwellings near the visitors center? That it's another 10 miles to the cliff dwellings?
OK it was a beautiful drive. There had been some scorching forest fires from lightning strikes a couple years ago. As we finally landed at the top of the mesa the view stretched for many miles and we passed countless acres of burned tree trunks surrounded by rich, green scrub plants that have grown back post-fire. A very stark but stunning image. I collected a few snaps later in the day when the light was better but here's an example.
We continued along and came to the parking lot for Balcony House. We waited with a few fellow travelers. Now this was a 5pm tour on a Sunday afternoon so it turns out we didn't near the max of 60 people per tour. Our group was more like 25. The ranger was charming and clearly a hippie in a uniform. Well a washed hippie anyway.
He gave us the history of the place and warned/scared us of the various climbing/squeezing that was to come. Next to us was an 80+ year old couple with charming southern accents. Kat and I looked at each other. God we're wimps.
A summer stormed threatened, thunder in the distance. The tour started at the rim of a steep canyon. You hike down, walk along, then climb up a ladder into Balcony House. The place is really well protected by its naturally precipitous location. I put my wide angle lens on the D200 for this outing.
Here we are at the base of the ladder readying ourselves for the climb up. Kat was nervous but held it together.
Mitchell, of course, scampered up like a rabbit. I was second and landed in a small alcove. I snapped off two quick shots of the view in this spot, a fellow traveler, the ranger and the ladder below.
The view down the ladder.
Made it.
This is an incredible place. What these people were able to build with just stone tools is beyond belief and the place itself is magisterial in its spare and highly efficient design.
The place is designed with a series of interconnected rooms and walls. In the photo above do you see the small window on the left just above the low wall? Here's shot through the window.
We climbed up that short ladder and around a hidden path to the area seen through the window. There are different living spaces on many levels. Each area having a ceremonial kiva, typically built into the floor. Here's Mitchell and the ranger a little further along.
This shot below is looking back from where Mitchell and the ranger stood. You'll see that same window back lit on the now right edge of the far wall. The kiva dropping open below us.
Originally those kivas would be covered with a roof that would be contiguous with the floor. A small square hole with a ladder poking out would be all that you would see along the floor. I have a shot of one later in the trip.
The ranger really gave us a taste of the life that these people must have lived. A fascinating and hardy bunch.
Well the denouement was a hike up another ladder, then a crawl through the infamous tunnel and a couple more ladders up.
Mitchell rabbited up and in hindsight we probably should have kept him closer. Did I mention the cliff was steep as hell and had a 400 foot drop? I probably should have.
Crawl we did. I had to twist my shoulders vertically as the crawlspace was only 18 inches wide and about 15 feet long. It was a little creepy but I imagined our octogenarian compatriots and once again felt like a dope.
Here's Kelsey scampering up ladder number two.
And Kathleen making it up with a smile.
I have shots of her approaching the tunnel crawl but I'm saving those for future extortion opportunities.
We were tired but elated. This was an amazing experience. The physical effort to enter and depart the cliff house brings with it motor-sensory memories that flood my mind with sensations that I'll never forget. I highly recommend a visit if you can.
We drank from our water flasks feeling triumphant and ready for some TLC at the B&B. The drive out from this spot to the park entrance is nearly a full hour with no significant traffic delaying the drive. It's just that far.
The rain finally came as we descended through the cuts of the mesa. We were in a short caravan following some poor motorcyclist who was being grotesquely tailgated by an obnoxious twit in a Yukon. In the rain. The cretin. Well the rain dissipated by the time we returned to Cortez.
The Lebanon Schoolhouse B&B is a 15 minute drive north of Cortez. It is just as it sounds, a converted schoolhouse, small but very pretty indeed. We knocked and rang. No one home. &*#$&%!
Now we were really tired and growing grumpy by the second. The door was open so we went in. It's really a lovely place with a large, neat as a pin, central room. We were writing a note when one of the proprietors came in. She hadn't noticed us as evidenced by the vertical height she reached when I said hello to her back. OK slightly evil but worth it.
They were actually most gracious hosts. Directing us to our tidy and well appointed rooms and suggesting a fine dining establishment in nearby Delores. The Delores River Brewery was situated near the square of this small Colorado mountain town. Nice beers, all cask-conditioned! The place was kid friendly but with quite a sophisticated vibe for such a small spot. The individual pizzas were big enough for two and tasty though the tomato sauce was widely regarded as too sweet. My salad with roasted mushrooms ranked in the top 5 of all time.
Frankly I was feeling a bit jealous as I wished that a little of this vibe and quality could seep into some of the Carmel Valley joints. Don't get me wrong. I love CV but sometimes its really too hillbilly even for this boy. OK I do love the Running Iron.
We headed back to the B&B for some R&R.
CLICK HERE for the next part in our Four Corners trip.
OK so the day before was going to be hard to match but we took a stab at it.
We slept well. I woke to take a few morning snaps. The light was excellent. A lovely green tree/shrub just outside our room.
Off to the cafeteria for breakfast. It was also a fine dining experience. Food was tasty, everyone friendly.
We headed out first with a quick revisit along the south rim of CDC. We wanted a better daylight view of the White House ruin and had been racing the rain yesterday before sunset. Here it is from the overlook. Click through to a larger size (I'd go from there to the All Sizes button above the image and go to Original Size or just click this link.) and look just above the green tree line, just left of center, along the base of the cliff.
Here's a zoomed shot from the same spot.
The canyon seems so very different from above. The vistas are now vast but also remote. While certainly beautiful (like Spider Rock yesterday) there's no substitute for being down there.
We took a walk along the canyon ledge. It's about an 800 foot drop down from here. The ledge wraps around the south rim. We took in the dramatic view. That's the trail down from the rim on the left, switching back and forth.
Mitchell hunted lizards.
We had a big day ahead so we looped back and then headed along the north rim of Canyon Del Muerto on route 64. Stopped along near the Ledge ruin.
These overlooks are similar to those on the south rim but the light has greater contrast with the dramatic, sweeping terrain. Look at the Mummy Cave rim below. The ruin is tucked away just off the floor of the valley in the left section of the shadow that sweeps across the bottom. You can make out a couple of the tower sections.
Zoom.
Further along we found the Massacre Cave overlook. This is an area that Sally had made special mention of as the site of Carson's infamous massacre of indians trapped on the ledge. The ledge is on the left, sweeping up from the bush on the lower left corner. It's currently covered with flat stone rubble from a cliff slide. Just to give you a sense of scale that ledge sits approximate 150 below the rim.
Its nearly overwhelming to imagine what that siege must have been like.
Here's a shot from the Yucca Cave overlook.
We could have spent all day. It's worth noting too that were so few fellow tourists on either rim. We made 5 stops along the north rim. Each stop had a native selling jewelry and such. Only on one stop did we see any other car. Completely amazing to me that this place is so quiet. I don't know nor understand why.
We continued Northeast along 64 towards Tsaile. A brief summer storm came at us as we descended into the tiny town.
Tsaile is little more than a crossroads. I intended to head over the mountains to Shiprock in N.M. Sort of a looping approach to the Four Corners. I got directions from the local gas station. A local chatted with me at the pump regarding my Colorado license plates. Friendly fellow who's family lives in and near the Canyon.
We headed north on 12 and missed the mountain turn at Lukachukai. It's a tiny sign and not a heavily traveled road. C'est la guerre. We'll have to take it next time.
Nonetheless the drive was incredibly scenic and, frankly, more direct to the Four Corners. Route 12 turns into route 191 (how I discovered we were off course) at Round Rock (it was). Then finally "T"ing at Mexican Water Trading Post. East on 160 through Mexican Water and on to yet another Red Mesa.
Now this Red Mesa was interesting indeed. Imagine one of these typical high desert spots. Just a modest sized highway with nothing around but the occasional mesa and scrub brush. Miles of empty space, sky, wind and thoughts. Then suddenly up pops a particularly lovely red mesa, probably 400 feet high and a mile or so long. Not so unusual. Now I didn't get a shot of that one but here's one from just 20 miles earlier with virtually identical proportions.
Well in front of this particular mesa is what appears to be three square blocks of some Silicon Valley housing enclave. Maybe 200 identical, modern condos. Probably less than 10 years old. Completely encircled by a 12 foot, tastefully decorated, cinderblock wall with large and imposing looking gate and gate house. Like some medieval keep transmogrified to the 21st century. Absolutely nothing else nearby save the mesa some 2 miles in the distance. Just flat land and sky. Oh and a gas station in front by the highway.
Random.
Hang a left at Teec Nos Pos (my favorite name) continuing 160, just a few miles and there on the left is the Four Corners.
Well this has certainly gone from an interesting surveying slight-of-hand to a full blow tourist trap. The kids were thrilled and frankly so was I. $4 a head and in you go.
Take a look at the map on the link above. Zoom in a little. It's a wagon circle of stands surrounding what is now a pretty massive conglomeration of concrete and metal plaques complete with aerial photography stand. Aerial meaning up 8 feet above the magical spot as this shot attests.
Don't forget your Four Corners t-shirt.
Actually we went for a fry bread snack. I was tempted to do some more Navajo Tacos but it was too early for that much gas.
Shiprock was viewable in the distance. Thus named as it looked to eastern travelers like a mid 19th century schooner.
We skedaddled. Continuing Northeast on 160 crossing into Colorado heading up to Cortez and Mesa Verde. Stopped at a Sonic burger. First time. Not bad. Rollerskating waitress was a sight. Very nice, efficient and nearly toothless. Charming.
Cortez is the gateway town for Mesa Verde, a huge, mountainous mesa / national park that goes on seemingly forever and is considered mecca for visiting ancient cliff dwellings. We had a nice B&B booked for the night in nearby Dolores but heck it was only 2:30. Let's get in some mesa.
We continued along 160 through Cortez, which is Cowboy Town as this photo will attest if you click through to larger sizes.
Along the right of this shot is the face of the Mesa Verde peaks. Seems unassuming. Wrong.
We enter the park and, having previously paid $80 for the National Parks year long pass, zipped through the entry gate and up the mesa.
Zipped.
Once again we face a tortuously twisty, albeit splendid, 20 mile drive just to get to the visitors center. Took about 35 minutes to get there.
The Long View visitors center has just that but is designed to frustrate the efforts of us simple folk, who are just trying to get the basic info on these fabled cliff dwellings, with no less than a long parking lot, two very, very long ramps, separated by a long under-road tunnel and a climb up to the center.
Some architect, somewhere, should be slapped or sobered up and brought back to march this charming little trek for a month of round trips until he cries uncle or dissolves in lactic acidosis.
Did I mention it was poorly designed?
The two truly magnificent and enormous cliff houses can be visited via tours with the park rangers. One of which, Balcony House, is famous for its multiple ladders and tiny crawlspace tunnel for access and egress. Kat was a little nervous about it. I had visions of wedging myself in some space...
We went for it. Also buying a ticket for the tour of Cliff Palace for tomorrow.
Did I mention there's no cliff dwellings near the visitors center? That it's another 10 miles to the cliff dwellings?
OK it was a beautiful drive. There had been some scorching forest fires from lightning strikes a couple years ago. As we finally landed at the top of the mesa the view stretched for many miles and we passed countless acres of burned tree trunks surrounded by rich, green scrub plants that have grown back post-fire. A very stark but stunning image. I collected a few snaps later in the day when the light was better but here's an example.
We continued along and came to the parking lot for Balcony House. We waited with a few fellow travelers. Now this was a 5pm tour on a Sunday afternoon so it turns out we didn't near the max of 60 people per tour. Our group was more like 25. The ranger was charming and clearly a hippie in a uniform. Well a washed hippie anyway.
He gave us the history of the place and warned/scared us of the various climbing/squeezing that was to come. Next to us was an 80+ year old couple with charming southern accents. Kat and I looked at each other. God we're wimps.
A summer stormed threatened, thunder in the distance. The tour started at the rim of a steep canyon. You hike down, walk along, then climb up a ladder into Balcony House. The place is really well protected by its naturally precipitous location. I put my wide angle lens on the D200 for this outing.
Here we are at the base of the ladder readying ourselves for the climb up. Kat was nervous but held it together.
Mitchell, of course, scampered up like a rabbit. I was second and landed in a small alcove. I snapped off two quick shots of the view in this spot, a fellow traveler, the ranger and the ladder below.
The view down the ladder.
Made it.
This is an incredible place. What these people were able to build with just stone tools is beyond belief and the place itself is magisterial in its spare and highly efficient design.
The place is designed with a series of interconnected rooms and walls. In the photo above do you see the small window on the left just above the low wall? Here's shot through the window.
We climbed up that short ladder and around a hidden path to the area seen through the window. There are different living spaces on many levels. Each area having a ceremonial kiva, typically built into the floor. Here's Mitchell and the ranger a little further along.
This shot below is looking back from where Mitchell and the ranger stood. You'll see that same window back lit on the now right edge of the far wall. The kiva dropping open below us.
Originally those kivas would be covered with a roof that would be contiguous with the floor. A small square hole with a ladder poking out would be all that you would see along the floor. I have a shot of one later in the trip.
The ranger really gave us a taste of the life that these people must have lived. A fascinating and hardy bunch.
Well the denouement was a hike up another ladder, then a crawl through the infamous tunnel and a couple more ladders up.
Mitchell rabbited up and in hindsight we probably should have kept him closer. Did I mention the cliff was steep as hell and had a 400 foot drop? I probably should have.
Crawl we did. I had to twist my shoulders vertically as the crawlspace was only 18 inches wide and about 15 feet long. It was a little creepy but I imagined our octogenarian compatriots and once again felt like a dope.
Here's Kelsey scampering up ladder number two.
And Kathleen making it up with a smile.
I have shots of her approaching the tunnel crawl but I'm saving those for future extortion opportunities.
We were tired but elated. This was an amazing experience. The physical effort to enter and depart the cliff house brings with it motor-sensory memories that flood my mind with sensations that I'll never forget. I highly recommend a visit if you can.
We drank from our water flasks feeling triumphant and ready for some TLC at the B&B. The drive out from this spot to the park entrance is nearly a full hour with no significant traffic delaying the drive. It's just that far.
The rain finally came as we descended through the cuts of the mesa. We were in a short caravan following some poor motorcyclist who was being grotesquely tailgated by an obnoxious twit in a Yukon. In the rain. The cretin. Well the rain dissipated by the time we returned to Cortez.
The Lebanon Schoolhouse B&B is a 15 minute drive north of Cortez. It is just as it sounds, a converted schoolhouse, small but very pretty indeed. We knocked and rang. No one home. &*#$&%!
Now we were really tired and growing grumpy by the second. The door was open so we went in. It's really a lovely place with a large, neat as a pin, central room. We were writing a note when one of the proprietors came in. She hadn't noticed us as evidenced by the vertical height she reached when I said hello to her back. OK slightly evil but worth it.
They were actually most gracious hosts. Directing us to our tidy and well appointed rooms and suggesting a fine dining establishment in nearby Delores. The Delores River Brewery was situated near the square of this small Colorado mountain town. Nice beers, all cask-conditioned! The place was kid friendly but with quite a sophisticated vibe for such a small spot. The individual pizzas were big enough for two and tasty though the tomato sauce was widely regarded as too sweet. My salad with roasted mushrooms ranked in the top 5 of all time.
Frankly I was feeling a bit jealous as I wished that a little of this vibe and quality could seep into some of the Carmel Valley joints. Don't get me wrong. I love CV but sometimes its really too hillbilly even for this boy. OK I do love the Running Iron.
We headed back to the B&B for some R&R.
CLICK HERE for the next part in our Four Corners trip.
Comments
This might be of interest:
A film clip laced with history from Canyon De Chelly:
Canyon De Chelly & ES Curtis Film Clip